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If you’re looking for a versatile white vino, we’ve done the legwork for you
Viognier is a fickle grape. It’s hard to grow because it’s susceptible to a whole range of pests and diseases. Not only that, it’s also a fussy little fruit that needs to be picked at just the right time in order to showcase the grape’s distinctive heady aromas of honeysuckle, apricot and peach at their fullest.
Having said that, get it right and you’ll be richly rewarded with a full-bodied creamy white, full of texture, with possibly nutty and slightly spicy layers on the palate. You’ll notice almost all have an ABV of at least 13 per cent – pretty high for a white wine but this perfectly illustrates the rich, lush nature you can expect from a good viognier. Thankfully we’ve done the legwork for you, sorting the fabulous from the ordinary at a variety of price points.
If you’ve not had the pleasure of trying this grape yet, it can be a great alternative for chardonnay drinkers. Originating in the Northern Rhône (particularly on the steep slopes above the village of Condrieu), you’ll now also find it growing in South Africa, Australia, Chile and California.
It’s a particularly food friendly wine, working well with seafood and shellfish, white meat such as roast chicken but also pork dishes, hard cheeses and (notoriously tricky to pair with) spicy food too.
For our round-up, we’ve focused on unblended, 100 per cent viogniers and were very impressed with the quality we sampled at very purse friendly prices.
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A 100 per cent viognier from the Languedoc region in Southern France, the fruit for L’Ostal is taken from the coolest part of the estate and that freshness really shines through here. However, having benefited from being aged on lees for some time, this is still very much a full-bodied white with plenty of character and texture. Highly aromatic, with notes of orange peel and ripe apricot, the nutty undertone is both extremely moreish and very food friendly. Try as an aperitif on a sunny day or with a warm goat’s cheese salad. We could easily have believed this was much more expensive than it was.
Coming from the Barossa Valley in southern Australia, this viognier is particularly intense with honeysuckle on the nose, moving to more ripe tropical fruits on the palate. Silky smooth, creamy and rich, yet with a fresh finish, we loved the layers of almonds, fennel and touch of spice. Certified organic, we’d recommend pairing with Moroccan tagine or marinated roast chicken. A guaranteed dinner party pleaser.
Picking up silver at the International Wine and Spirit competition, this is made at Abbotts & Delaunay’s boutique winery, producers known for specialising in high-end Languedoc wines. Elegant and easy to drink, it’s part of the “fleurs et fruits sauvages” (wildflowers and fruits) Pays d’Oc varietal range which goes some way in telling you what to expect. Made from 100 per cent viognier, the wine is aged for a few months “on the lees”, which provides texture to accompany the typical varietal characteristics of peach, apricot and orange blossom. Underscored with a brisk freshness – we reckon this one’s a pretty perfect summer wine. Delicious with asparagus risotto, summer fruits and simply chilled on its own as an early evening drink in the garden on a beautiful summer’s evening.
From one of the oldest vineyards in Languedoc – with some vines dating back as far as 1350 – comes this highly textured white wine with notes of pear hidden alongside the obligatory apricot and white blossom. Pleasingly refreshing with good acidity, this is particularly excellent value, so we’d suggest stocking up and elevating your next Chinese takeaway with this winning pairing.
Certified organic, the team at Domaine Preignes has a saying which perfectly sums up its approach; “Treat when necessary, where necessary with just what is necessary". It’s this very hands-off way of winemaking which allows for the grapes to express their true characteristics without any unnecessary interference. Working well as both an aperitif or even with fruity desserts, expect a well-rounded viognier with ripe stone fruit and crisp freshness. The price is for a case of six.
Remember how fussy viognier can be? Pandering to its needs, young winemaker Laurent Miquel makes use of the lower temperatures found in the Languedoc province at night, by picking the fruit for his wines after dark. Well-balanced, soft and fresh, Waitrose & Partners recommends pairing with spicy fish cakes which sounds like a truly winning combination to us.
Although we’ve featured quite a few viogniers from the south of France, pioneering winemaker Olivier Mandeville was one of the very first to plant these vines in the Languedoc region. Tell-tale varietal flavours of white peach, honeysuckle and apricot are present along with a twist of ginger, making it a particularly good pairing for mildly spicy, seafood curries. A fantastic mid-week supermarket steal to buy now. The price is for a case of six.
Hailing from southern Australia, this new world viognier refrains from tipping into the “too much” category, which some inferior styles have a habit of doing. Nicely weighted stone fruit is coupled with good acidity, all tied up with a fresh finish that you might not have expected from this part of the world. In terms of food pairings, we’d be tempted to fire up the barbeque and serve with grilled chicken or sausages.
Despite the rather humble price tag, this racy little white has picked up plenty of awards over the years. Committed to the environment, you’ll notice a bicycle on the label which is in reference to the way employees make their way around the Chilean vineyard. Just as you’d expect there’s the fresh stone fruit and orange peel on the nose but with a pleasing spicy twist on the finish making it a match made in heaven for chicken curries other chilli packed dishes.
Although we thoroughly enjoy drinking our viognier in the sunshine, it’s a great transitional style to see us into autumn. Enticing us with a winning combination of orange peel and apricot, we’ve awarded our IndyBest Buy to the very moreish Domaine de l’Ostal viognier who totally convinced us we were drinking something way more expensive.
If you’re looking for affordable vinos, read our review of the best wines that cost under £10 – they’ll fool any oenophilia